pomak-identity

The chapter delves into the complex history and cultural identity of a remote Pomak village on the Bulgarian-Greek border, shaped by Ottoman legacy, Communist oppression, and Cold War militarization. Through encounters with local villagers and stories of exile, smuggling, and interfaith coexistence, it reveals a resilient community deeply connected to its landscape and traditions, grappling with the ongoing tensions and hopes for open borders.

The chapter examines the fraught cultural and political landscape of the Drama border region, focusing on the Pomak minority caught between Greek and Bulgarian nationalisms and the legacy of economic decline following the collapse of the tobacco trade. Through encounters with local figures and a tense night with small-time dealers, the narrative reveals the enduring scars of historical conflicts, shifting borders, and Cold War tensions, culminating in a visit to a fortified hill that symbolizes the region's layered geopolitical history.